This year it’s an 18 days Ireland road trip to follow this magnificent route along the west coast of the island: the Wild Atlantic Way. We choose to do this route: 2600 km from south to north to finish the loop via Belfast and Dublin.
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Preparing for the Ireland road trip
The Wild Atlantic Way website (https://www.discoverireland.ie/wild-atlantic-way) is very well documented to prepare for the road trip. It gives a good idea of the route and the stops not to be missed (he talks about Signature Point: https://www.discoverireland.ie/wild-atlantic-way/incredible-places-to-experience-the-wild-atlantic -way).
When planning the trip, we first explore the option of flying from Paris and then car rental, but car rental prices have increased by more than 270% in one year and there may be insurance issues along the way. from the border with Northern Ireland.
We are opting for the Irish Ferries option from Cherbourg, the ferry leaves around 4 p.m. from France to arrive in Dublin the next morning at 10 a.m. You have to book in advance because it is relatively expensive (1600 euros for the round trip, 2 people with a single cabin).
Another piece of advice given by an Irish friend is that you have to book every night because there are generally few options and it quickly becomes complicated to find free and cheap accommodation. We use Booking to choose well-rated B&Bs, the average price for a night for two is 100/120 euros with breakfast.
Hotels along our Wild Atlantic Way route:
- Day 1 : The K Kinsale in Kinsale
- Day 2 : The LookOut in Skibbereen
- Days 3 and 4 : Dromquina Manor
- Day 5 : Tower View in Dingle
- Day 6 : Knockaguilla House Bed & Breakfast in Doolin
- Day 7 : Clifden Bay Lodge in Clifden
- Day 8 : The Wyatt Hotel in Westport
- Day 9 : Ross Beach Family FarmHouse B&B in Ballina
- Day 10 : Haven Rooms, Sea View in Kilcar
- Day 11
- Day 12 : The Fullerton Arms in Ballintoy
- Days 13 and 14 : House Belfast Hotel in Belfast
- Days 15 and 16 : The Wilder in Dublin
Total budget : 6500 euros for 2 travelers
- Ferry: 1600 euros with Irish Ferries (ticket taken 3 months before departure)
- Gasoline: 600 euros (€1.99 per liter)
- Hotel: 2400 euros (2 people generally including breakfast)
- Excursion: 600 euros (including 230€ for Skellig Island, 60€ for Baltimore, 60€ for the Baths, etc.)
- Lunch and dinner: around 1300 euros (very few restaurants but Pub every evening)
Total journey: 2600 km in Ireland.
Detailed itinerary for this Ireland road trip – Wild Atlantic Way
Step 1: Cherbourg to Dublin by Ferry (departure 4:30 p.m. – arrival 10 a.m.)
Boarding in Cherbourg, deadline is 3 p.m. It’s really well organized, we park the car in one of the parking decks, remembering the color of the stairs to help us find our way. We have cabin 1012 so Deck 10 and nice surprise the view out the window is of the rear of the boat. The cabin is very comfortable with two beds and its small bathroom. The journey begins from the promenade deck to witness the departure of the Ferry. The weather is superb and we enjoy the view of these “bastions” at the exit of the port. Then towards the open sea, we discover the boat with its bars, its restaurants, its shop.
Tip: put your phone on airplane mode otherwise you switch to a maritime satellite operator which costs a fortune (9 euros per MB). There is a charge for WiFi on board so it will be 16 hours of “digital detox”.
Experience a magnificent sunset in the middle of the Channel with just a few scattered boats.
After a good night without waves, it’s time to wake up along the Irish coast. It’s super cool: we’re far from the heatwave. Arrived on time, great organization to empty the hundreds of cars and trucks. We wait before turning to the left of the road. Fortunately they sell a sticker to put in your field of vision on the windshield.
Step 2: Dublin to Kinsale
This is the first stage of our Ireland road trip: it will allow us to reach the town of Kinsale in the south of the island: starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way. On the way we stop at the Rock of Cashel which is a magnificent medieval site on top of a hill.
It’s possible to visit the Chapel with a guide (around 30 minutes): https://www.discoverireland.ie/tipperary/rock-of-cashel-st-patrick-s-rock
Kinsale is a pretty town on the water, discovered our first B&B, very well decorated and welcoming. Walk through the city and its colorful houses.
Then direction the first spot of the Wild Atlantic Way: the Head of Kinsale (https://www.discoverireland.ie/cork/old-head-signal-tower-signature-discovery-point). It’s a rocky outcrop that houses a golf course so it’s private but we can walk along the cliffs. This is the drone’s first outing.
Our host recommends The Spaniard pub (http://www.thespaniard.ie/) where we try our first Gin Tonic. For the meal it will be Fish and Chips at a local institution: Dinos (https://www.dinostakeaway.ie/).
Step 3: Kinsale to Skibbereen
Departure from Kinsale along the Wild Atlantic Way with a first stop at Galley Head View, it is a very beautiful point with cliffs. Unfortunately it is not possible to access the lighthouse because it is a private golf course. We still take advantage of the cliffs to see the seagulls playing with the wind.
The next Signature Point is Mizen Head (https://www.discoverireland.ie/cork/mizen-head) with breathtaking views from a bridge spanning the cliffs. It’s the end of the day, there are few visitors and we can enjoy this area quietly.
This stack of Altar stone is called “the church of the poor”. The wind is calm, the drone can take off to photograph these streaks of stones sinking into a transparent sea.
Our B&B is quiet in the village of Skibbereen and our host recommends the unique local pub “The Skibbereen Eagle”: the gin and tonic and Caesar salad are great.
Step 4: Skibbereen to Templenoe via Baltimore
2.5 hour trip in a speedboat around the islands in Baltimore Bay. Many anecdotes by the captain (the fort of Jeremy Irons, the island of the boss of Google Europe, etc.) but especially dolphins and seals.
Magnificent tower, the Baltimore Beacon which offers a dizzying view point above the cliffs. Beautiful playground for the drone despite a strong wind (it holds up well and above all returns to the starting point).
A road, the Healy Pass, which zigzags and sheep that I approach with the drone gently so as not to scare them away (I tried on foot but the look of one with the added horns did not make me want to ‘go further).
2 nights of Glamping at Dromquinna Manor: The safari-style tents in Africa are super comfortable and with a magical view of the water. Tonight it’s well-cooked pizza and “triffle” for dessert.
Step 5: Killarney
Very pretty road which winds to pass a pass and the view looks out over the national park, it is hot (at least 27 degrees).
1.5 km to go along the lake with a good idea at the end: a café that tempts us with ice tea and local ice cream. Reward on the way back with a sublime deer which has a leisurely lunch.
Very touristy and we are not used to it, Ross Castle can only be visited with a guide and we do not have the courage. We find a porch that acts as an air conditioner and it’s super nice.
Sheep on the side of the road, blue and red ones, ones jumping out of the truck… there are animals everywhere.
Step 6: Excursion on Skellig Island
It’s 8:30 when we arrive in this small port to board the boat… the weather has completely changed, it is foggy and 16 degrees.
Sublime excursion on the island of Michael Skelling, (https://www.discoverireland.ie/kerry/sceilg-mhichil-skellig-michael) 618 steps to reach a monastery built in the 6th century on a very hostile island.
Very photogenic photo session with the puffins. Click to see more photos.
This island is now famous because it’s the setting of Star Wars as Luke’s retirement place!
The sun has returned and we discover a 5 kilometer long beach accessible to cars.
Dunmore Head, a big climb on this meadow with a few sheep to admire the view of this string of islands, the place is also known for the Star Wars film.
Quite unreal to think that this chapel is 1300 years old!
Step 7: An Chonair Pass, Spanish Point and Lehinch Beach
Passing a beautiful pass, it’s 12 degrees and it’s slightly rainy… exit the drone to see the lakes. Discussion with two French people from Montpellier who ride around in a Brompton.
15 minutes by ferry to cross the Shannon with the surprise of dolphins in the passage.
Excellent idea with these tweezers for picking up trash on the beach. Surfers in the water and above all a surf clinic… water at 16 degrees!
Step 8: Clifs of Moher
Magnificent walks along these sublime cliffs, and luckily the ray of sunshine which gives color to the site.
Beautiful decoration for this B&B near Doolin and very good advice for the evening pub. Mc Gann’s Pub, Cork music gin and delicious apple pie.
Step 9: Fanore Beach, Galway and Clifden
Beach of surfers for the pleasure of the drone and with cows taken in photos by the car’s reversing camera.
Picnic on a beach in Galway to watch young people jump from a very 1950s diving board.
Drone photo session to see the famous Connemara Lakes from above.
Evening stroll to see the ruins of a castle dating from 1818 before going to listen to music at the Pub.
Step 10: Omey Island
Omey Island is an island accessible by car only at low tide via a sufficiently “stable” strip of sand. Sublime… the passage at low tide over the sand by car to reach the island opposite. The color of the water is magical.
On the island of Omey Island, there are a few inhabitants because we pass houses along the only road that leads to the other side of this tiny plot of land. The color of the water is unreal, however swimming is deterrent because the water is too cold.
To read Omey Island post: click here
Step 11: Kylemore Abbay and Westport
The castle sits above this small lake, towards the end of the 19th century, it housed the first Benedictine sisters in Ireland since the 1600s.
Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint over the most beautiful fjord in Ireland.
Sandwich break and above all visit to the museum “The sheep and wool Center”, very educational on the work of sheep wool with demonstrations.
First night at the hotel… we miss our more comfortable B&Bs, and generally better located… but this evening we are in the city center, however all the shops have been closed since 6 p.m.
Step 12 : Downpatrick Head
Impressive site with this block of rocks which stands off the cliff.
Once again a magnificent beach accessible by car: contrast between the green and the sand.
Step 13: Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths
Stops in these algae baths from another century, the wooden box is a mini-sauna: you manage the steam level with a controller inside.
Step 14: Donegal Yarns and Fanad North
Super interesting visit to a “tweed” wool factory going through all the stages: dyeing, mixing, spinning…
Fand North, almost the last stage of the Wild Atlantic Way before heading to Northern Ireland… already 2200 km since arriving in Dublin.
Step 15: Dunluce Castle and Giant’s Causeway
Superb ruin of an old castle, we barely manage to do the walk because it closes at 3:30 p.m.
The Giant’s Causeway keeps its promises of beauty and originality, it is very photogenic and the sun offers us a few appearances.
Step 17: Ballintoy Harbour
Lost at the end of a narrow road but with quite a few visitors because it’s a “Game of Thrones” filming site… the evening light is magical.
Pretty nice pub hotel with a good Caesar salad and BIG desserts. This morning I tried the “full Irish” breakfast with egg, sausage, black pudding, pancake, bacon…
Step 18: Murlough Bay and Torre Head
Small cove away from tourists, it’s lost at the end of a road inaccessible for buses and campers… so we had real peace and quiet.
Beautiful viewpoint from this eagles’ nest with a perfect piloting track for the drone:
Step 19: Belfast
The hotel is super trendy with a huge tree at the bar, we tried 2 cocktails before going to the cinema at the local university… two beautiful cinemas and this evening a French film with “robust” Depardieu.
Discovery for 1h30 with a guide of the complex history of Northern Ireland between Catholic and Protestant, between pro-Irish and pro-British… there is always a wall to separate the communities with doors that close at night!! It’s difficult to completely understand the hatred between them…
An unmissable visit to the Titanic museum retracing the history of this technical feat with a tragic destiny.
Step 20: Dublin
Here we are for two nights in the most chic hotel of our trip “small luxury hotel”. The room is super cute and well decorated. We even have a welcome gin and tonic and we take the opportunity to have a plate of cheese.
Visit to the St Gorges Market and stop at the hairdresser.
Visit with a very interesting guide to the old prison and therefore the history of the Irish civil war to gain independence from the British.
Last visit to Dublin before returning by ferry to France, the large library with thousands of books from floor to ceiling.
Last step: back to France
2600 km of incredible landscapes under exceptional sunshine. We had the perfect mix of quasi-desert places and extremely charming Irish pubs! The Wild Atlantic Way has kept its promises, the cities of Belfast and Dublin are rich in history little known to us French.
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